"He didn't offer you his wife?"

I was awoken the next morning by my two English-speaking friends from the night before, who said goodbye and wished me well on the trip to Ban Lung, which I would finally reach today. I myself then said my farewells to my surrogate family, who smiled and waved as I sped off down the gravel road.

After the thrills of the day before, the road to Ban Lung from Pakalan (spelling now ascertained) was pleasantly flat, wide and easy, with little to cause any problems, the odd pothole or rut aside. All very simple and the ride is broken up by a river crossing.

After a largely uneventful and nondescript ride, I reached Ban Lung, which had become something of a Holy Grail after the previous day's travails. I had decided on Terres Rouges, a pretty luxurious place for the area.

After settling in and disposing of my muddy clothing, I returned to the reception to ask for a pharmacy in order to treat my engine burn. In the reception was the enigmatic owner, Pierre-Yves, a former French paratrooper who has settled in Ratanakiri and, judging by what would follow, knows the area well.

I asked for a pharmacy, at which Pierre-Yves asked what the problem was. I showed him my leg and he immediately treated it with iodine and hydrogen peroxide. He asked where I had come from and was surprised to hear that I'd come from Siem Pang via Pakalan. He was even more surprised to hear that I didn't have a GPS or map of any significance, politely calling me brave and asking where I'd stayed. I explained what had happened and his reply was, "So the man of the house did not offer you his wife?"

I was flabbergasted and asked him to repeat his question, which he did. When I asked him to explain, he casually said that he had been to remote villages in the region where, as part of the hospitality, this had been offered. Although he hadn't partaken, he said that I'd been lucky not to have had the offer made, for it spared me an awkward refusal!

Ban Lung itself is a classic town in the middle of nowhere, with little to detain passers by. Motorcycle spares can be obtained in town (useful) and the market is quite large (useful). There's also Boeng Yeak Loam, a pretty lake about 5km out of town, and some waterfalls a little closer. The pace of life is, therefore, quite slow, until tempers flare...

I witnessed this first hand while photographing the sunset. Two motorcycles, one carrying three young men, the other two, collided in the slightest fashion. Both braking, one jumped off each in confrontation. This quickly escalated into a scuffle, ending with the young man from the three-man bike striking the other youth with his belt, causing him to bleed profusely from his head. The three then made a swift escape, leaving their adversaries to make angry 'phone calls before speeding off, presumably in pursuit of vengeance.

It had been a pleasant, restful stay in Ban Lung. Now for the road to Sen Monorom...