Phu Quoc.

After highly enjoyable trials and tribulations for four and a half weeks, it was time to relax for a couple of days. Phu Quoc lies off the south-west coast of Vietnam, an hour's flight from Saigon, and made for a pleasant place to regain my senses after a hectic few days.

Fishing boats, Duong Dong.

The island possesses a shiny new international airport, for it aspires to be the next big south-east Asian destination, and the ride to Duong Dong was punctuated by glimpses of half-built roads and resort building. The road passes by Long Beach, home to Phu Quoc's array of large resorts; I, however, was staying at a small "resort", the Phu Quoc Peace Resort ($10 bed and breakfast), which was nowhere near the beach but possessed of peace, quiet and friendly staff, who gave me a free breakfast since I'd arrived so early. The rooms were pleasantly spartan but everything needed was there: mosquito nets, good showers and electricity. The owners are extremely friendly, as are their children, and I drank a fair few beers with the man of the household, who didn't ask for a cent in return. Very kind indeed.

Sao Beach.

Ong Beach.

The beaches are pleasantly unspoilt and there's something for everyone. Sao Beach, on the south-east coast of the island, is one of the more developed, with jet skis buzzing around on the water and beach bars pumping out music. Ong Beach, a few kilometres north of Duong Dong, is extremely quiet; I only saw one bar and a man selling beverages from an ice box. Further north, Cua Can and Vung Bau are also largely deserted, with perhaps one or two tourists for company. The latter also has a restaurant manned by friendly, attentive staff. Lastly, Long Beach is lined with bars and restaurants, while the sand is the most heavily populated of all. It still didn't feel too crowded, though that may not last for long! I would have seen the more northern beaches but the road was blocked when I tried, so I sadly didn't manage it.

Sunset, Ong Beach.

Eating on Phu Quoc is also a treat, largely due to the presence of the night markets, which are brimming with stalls selling a vast array of seafood options. All seemed to be much of a muchness and all were filled with locals alongside foreigners. Other highlights included the banh mi from the stall beside the wooden bridge in Duong Dong and the abundance of refreshing coconuts.

Two days definitely weren't enough: an extra day to go snorkelling would have been very welcome but no more really felt necessary. Getting around by scooter is extremely easy and affordable, though the roads can be confusing, mainly because they're still being built!

A Long Beach sunset.